A Sign of the Times

Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow
For decades, Kenneth and Garren were the poshest salons in New York—and then, within a month, both closed down.

This past February, on a bitter cold evening in New York, several beauty editors were sipping cocktails beneath the glittering chandeliers of the Chelsea lounge Up & Down. The occasion was the unveiling of three new products for the hair-care line R+Co, a collaboration between the top stylists Howard McLaren (of Whitehouse in Los Angeles), Garren (who goes by only his first name), and Thom Priano (Garren’s husband and cofounder of the famed Garren salon in Manhattan). As the DJ cued up “New Sensation,” Garren, dressed in a dark suit and a crisp white shirt, his Mr. Clean pate catching the light, chatted up guests. Later, when he, McLaren, and Priano demonstrated hair trends on models, they were introduced simply as “having connections to the salon world.”

For the full article, go here.

Mentoring in the Salon Industry

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Mentor Me This

What Does it Mean to You?

We recently caught up with Patrick Dockry, President & Co-founder of ENJOY Professional Hair Care and Health Beauty Life media for a chat about mentoring and what it means to him.

What is the importance of mentoring? How important is a mentoring culture within a salon?

Having been a salon owner myself, I personally believe that mentoring and the mind-set that goes along with it is essential to the growth of any salon. Having a well-integrated learning and teaching culture based on the teamwork of the salon as a whole always makes for the best possible work environment.

Mentoring can happen at any level, in fact many salon receptionists go on to beauty school because of the exposure to the business and likely some prompting from a mentor in the salon. Mentoring also tends to happen at the assistant stage when a new stylist is absorbing everything they can from the owner or other established stylists. Any good salon owner or manager knows that assisting is more than just sweeping up hair or folding towels and that there needs to be a giveback above and beyond the menial tasks assistants must endure.

What are ways one can be a mentor?

There are a lot of different levels of mentoring. Offering regular education in the salon and making sure to tailor some of it just to new stylists. Taking the time to explain a technique or implementing a hands-on color, cutting, or styling session for one-on-one learning is key. It can even be as simple as taking a new stylist, a student or even someone with a mere interest in the field and helping to cultivate a true passion by showing them the ropes. Taking young and eager students to a hair show or an educational event is a great place to start, but take the time to explain what is being seen and make personalized suggestions to help guide them so they can flourish.

What is the difference between education and mentoring?

Education is about what is being taught, while mentoring is how it’s being taught. Mentoring is personalized attention to nurture and grow new talent.

What is the benefit of continuing education?

Every salon professional, no matter how long they have been in the business, should sharpen their skills and update techniques and tools to stay on top of their game. We never really stop learning in this industry. If you think you know it all, you’re done…hang it up.

How has mentoring helped you personally?

Helping someone learn, especially with those “ah-ha” moments, can be very rewarding in, and of, itself. I liken it to my background in martial arts…you can only reach a certain level if you teach.

Does one decide to be a mentor, or is it innate?

The ability to give of themselves freely is natural for some people and not for others. However, I also think it’s a state of mind, so therefore it can be learned. To effectively mentor, one must teach freely and unselfishly for the pure sake of other’s learning and growing, and not expect anything in return.

Where do stylists need the most help in education?

Stylists in general really need help on the business side and in the client retention area, especially with so many booth renters in the industry. The business side is something that is typically learned with experience or exposure to the industry, but a great business mentor can help give a leg up.

Once a stylist decides to become a mentor, what is the next step?

Keep your eyes open so you are able to detect underlying talent or a spark of interest from others who may not be in the field yet. Consider talking at a local high school on career day or volunteer at a job fair. Inside the field, find eager learners and offer time to help encourage them. Some local beauty schools allow local salons to demonstrate techniques or recruit for the next wave of assistants, so form a few good connections at these learning centers and donate some time to make the most of them.

If not already in place, how can a stylist begin a culture of mentoring in his/her salon?

First, with the permission of the salon owner or manager, be open to teaching others, especially new stylists. Offer your time, perhaps on certain nights or mornings that aren’t so busy. Work one on one with assistants and newer stylists to overcome their weaknesses, especially in key areas that will really matter in their career. Show the eager receptionist or beauty school, even local high school student with an interest a few quick tips or techniques, share learning videos or just take the time to talk.  It’s that personalize attention and the sincerity of the person offering it that makes the difference.

How can a stylist find his or her own mentor?

In their salon or at their school is a good place to start. I think it’s pretty obvious who the dedicated teachers really are and most are thrilled to give more to someone who truly appreciates the time spent. In most cases it just takes asking. There are also professional groups and forums such as HAIRDRESSERPOWER.com that allow for great mentoring opportunities.

For more about mentoring, visit hairdresserpower.com.

Bain de Terre Win-Spiration Contest Announcement

Attention Salon Pros! Would you like to enter to win $1000 or even some amazing products? Our friends at Bain de Terre have the ultimate WIN-Spiration contest for you! Check out the details here: https://www.facebook.com/pages/bain-de-terre/18615545386?id=18615545386&sk=app_348658595236197.

Disclosure: No compensation was offered or taken in exchange for this feature. I have no affiliation to any of these brands mentioned.

ISSE Long Beach 2013

ISSE Long Beach 2013 – The West Coast’s Show of Shows

The West Coast’s Largest & Most Influential Professional Beauty Event Brings Together Exhibitors, Education and Competitions.

The International Salon and Spa Expo (ISSE) in Long Beach, California, the West Coast’s largest beauty event, took place on January 26 – 28, 2013 at the Long Beach Convention Center. Open exclusively to licensed beauty professionals, students and instructors, attendance met the 40,000 beauty professionals expected by the Professional Beauty Association (PBA), produces of the event. 

ISSE Long Beach 2013 offered industry professionals the latest products, tools, and trends to stay current with their skills and advance their careers. Attendees were treated to a wide array of educational classes, live stage performances, hair and nail competitions, and several hundred exhibitors representing brands from around the world. 

Student through advanced education classes from lectures to hands-on honed the skills of cut, color and style professionals, nail technicians and skin care specialists, including some brands offering certification for specific services. Business classes gave salon owners and managers a leg-up on the latest marketing, accounting and booking tools, tips and procedures to help build salon and spa success and keep businesses running smoothly.

Stage shows dazzled the crowds at ISSE with performances from Martin Parsons, Faatemah Ampey, Charlie Price, Mike Karg, Nick Arrojo, Lisa Yamasaki, Steve Elias, RUSK, BaByliss Pro, Enzo Team, P&G Salon Professional, and Sassoon Academy, to name a few. They demonstrated and or showcased an impressive array of cut, color and runway worthy styling to awe and inspire the creatively inclined crowd.

Students and licensed professionals also competed in various competitions, showing off their skills and winning career prestige as well as cash prizes at the ISSE Long Beach Hair and NailPro Nail competitions. Categories included: Ladies Trend Cut, Color & Style; Long Hair Bridal; and Fantasy-Inspired by Hollywood. Nailpro Nail Competitions: The Nailpro competitions count toward the NailPro Cup. Categories include: Soak Off Gel Manicure; French Twist – One Hand; and Tip & Overlay.   

 

Based on the highly professional nature of the show and large number of qualified attendees, ISSE Long Beach has also become the event to launch new beauty products, services and trends. From international beauty powerhouses to indie brands seeking to enter the market, ISSE Long Beach carefully curates the venue to maximize the attendee’s experience.

 

Launching at ISSE: Keratin Complex unveiled its Color Therapy line, with Kerahold permanent color, Demi-Glaze demi-permanent color and It’s a Blonde Thing, Keratin lightening system. Agadir debuted Hair Shield 450˚, a thermal protector, and the Feather Light Formulas of volumizing shampoo and conditioner. Zerran Haircare launched Zerran Reform 2.0 the next generation, 100 % natural vegan retexturizing system designed to dramatically reduce or eliminate curl pattern in any type of healthy hair for six months or longer. Tru-Hair launched Healthilocks, an exciting new in-salon repair treatment developed using biotechnology that is clinically tested to improve hair volume and health. Creative Nail Design showcased its new CND Shellac Sweet Dreams Collection in spring pastel colors including Grapefruit Sparkle, Cake Pop, Lilac Longing, Azure Wish, and Limeade, as well as the Springtime Sparkle Additives. 

 
For more information about ISSE Long Beach, or to become a member of PBA and receive special discounts and complementary passes, please visit probeauty.org/isselb.

About the PBA

The ISSE shows are produced by the Professional Beauty Association (PBA). PBA’s purpose is to advance the professional beauty industry by providing its members with education, charitable outreach, government advocacy, events and more. PBA is the largest organization of industry professionals with members representing salons and spas, distributors, manufacturers and beauty professionals/NCA. Visit probeauty.org or call 800.468.2274 (480.281.0424) to learn more.

The Issue of Head Lice - Welcome Back to School

September Comes With More Cases of Head Lice

Discovering that you or your child has head lice can be very traumatic. It is estimated that 10% of preschool and elementary school age children are treated for head lice annually, so it’s only a matter of time before it affects you, your family, or your child’s classmates, teammates, and friends.

What are Head Lice?
Head lice (Pediculus capitis) are small parasitic insects, about the size of a sesame seed, that require human blood to survive. They live mainly on the scalp and neck hairs of their human host. Head lice can live on a human head approximately 30 days but generally cannot survive longer than 24 to 48 hours off the host.

The adult louse is constructed for climbing and grasping with six legs, each possessing a strong claw. Mature lice are tan to grayish-white in color, but can appear darker on persons with darker hair.

An adult female louse, which is slightly larger than males, lays 3-5 eggs (or nits) a day. Nits are extremely tiny, about the size of a knot in thread and are hard to see. They are yellowish or grayish white, teardrop shaped, and are attached firmly to the hair shaft. Nits take about 1 week to hatch. Eggs that are likely to hatch are usually located within 1/4 inch of the scalp. The nit hatches into a baby louse called a nymph, which looks much like an adult head louse, but is smaller. Nymphs mature into adults about 7 days after hatching, and then the cycle starts all over again.

How Do They Spread?
The presence of head lice normally doesn't imply a lack of hygiene or sanitation. They are mainly acquired by direct head to head contact with an infested person, and can also be transferred with shared hats, scarves, brushes and hair accessories.

Preschool and elementary-age children and their families are infested most often with Infestations most apparent at the beginning of each school year.

Signs and Symptoms of Head Lice Infestation
· Tickling feeling of something moving in the hair.
· Itching caused by an allergic reaction to the bites.
· Sores on the head caused by scratching.

Dealing with the Problem
In addition to being an uncomfortable and often embarrassing situation for all involved, treating head lice can be even more distressing. Many available lice removal products have proven ineffective, costly, and even potentially harmful.

“The greatest harm associated with head lice results from the well-intentioned but misguided use of caustic or toxic substances to eliminate the lice.” Richard J. Pollack, PhD.- Harvard School of Public Health

Products for head lice removal and aftercare have become big business in the United States. According to the American Head Lice Information Center, the makers of pediculicides (a classification of chemicals most commonly used to treat head lice) take in over $150 million a year from assorted insecticidal louse shampoos, crème rinses, and sprays.

Taking a closer look at the chemicals used in various over the counter and prescription treatments, we find a barrage of potentially harmful pesticides. It is a fact that any chemical that kills pests is considered a pesticide, and all pesticides have the potential to cause serious side effects.

Lindane, a potent pesticide commonly used in the treatment of head lice, is consistently ranked among the top chemicals of concern by the Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry. Also, the International Agency for Research in Cancer (IARC) and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) classify lindane as a possible human carcinogen (or can cause cancer).

Poisoning with lindane may occur by ingestion, inhalation, or skin absorption with possible acute symptoms include headache, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, tremors, weakness, convulsions, dyspnea, and cyanosis circulatory collapse. Children are particularly vulnerable to the toxic effects of lindane with case-controlled research showing a significant association between the incidences of brain tumors in children with the use of lindane-containing lice shampoos.

Banned in 17 countries, lindane is harmful to the environment. The Los Angeles County Sanitation District estimates that one dose of a lindane treatment for head lice can pollute 6 million gallons of water to levels exceeding drinking water standards. This threat to clean drinking water, and the enormous costs of clean up, prompted California to ban lindane shampoos in 2002. Many other states have followed suit.

Other pesticides commonly used in lice treatments such as Maldison or Malathion, Piperonyl Butoxide Benzodioxole as well as pyrethrins and pyrethroids have also been linked to brain disorders, as well as heart, lung, muscle, kidney, and liver damage.

Although the Federal Drug Administration (FDA) requires testing for safety before they give their approval on any product, individuals can have unique vulnerabilities that must be considered before any treatment. The National Pediculosis Association (or NPA) warns against the use of any chemicals designed to kill or destroy head lice on any individuals who have pre-existing illness. This would include, but not limited to, those with asthma, epilepsy, brain tumors, cancer or AIDS. Those on medication, or who have been previously treated for head lice, as well as pregnant or nursing mothers may be more vulnerable to side effects and should avoid any chemical lice treatments for use on themselves or applying to others.

In addition to being potentially harmful, many products marketed for the treatment of head lice infestations are not nearly as effective as they claim. In fact, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) has investigated the manufacturers of RID®, Pronto®, and Clear® for making false and unsubstantiated claims regarding the use and effectiveness of their products. Among the claims sighted were statements that these products kill 100% of head lice and their eggs and loosen the glue that attaches the egg to the hair shaft. In spite of the FTC's findings and subsequent actions taken against these manufacturers, many of these claims are still made by unscrupulous over the counter, salon, and internet-based companies.

Is Organic Better?
Non-toxic remedies are obviously a preferred choice over pesticides whenever possible. However this does not mean that everything deemed “natural” is across the board safe. The American Head Lice Information Center states, “Many essential oils are extremely potent and should not be used on young children, babies or pregnant women.”

In addition, some manufacturers claim that their products are organic and contain essential oils that interfere with the nervous system and reproduction of head lice. These products typically do not meet FDA guidelines to be classified Organic, and their claims are often not supported by any type of clinical research.

The Problem Continues
An infestation of head lice is not easy to stop, especially in close-knit families, day care facilities and schools where one child can infect or re-infect dozens. Kate, a first grade teacher with a larger metropolitan area school district has seen the problem reoccur time and time again over the years.

“Kids, especially the younger ones,” claims the 22-year teaching veteran, “will walk arm in arm or hug each other without a second thought, so the spread of lice can happen quickly. Also many parents don’t take as active of a role in the problem as what is needed. They treat it once and assume the problem is gone. The child returns to school and within a couple of weeks, is back out again with another (or the same continued) infestation…In the mean time they are potentially infecting dozens of others at school, at home and at every activity that child participates in. It’s very frustrating. It’s also a terrible stigma for the infected child. It truly can be devastating for them and their self-esteem.”

Melissa, a busy mother of three recently had her own run-in with head lice that affected her closely-knit family. Every year since preschool at least one of her kids would bring home a notice from school warning of an outbreak or infestation of lice. She was very proud that they all seemed to manage to escape the problem every time. Her misconception, although well informed otherwise, was that she believed they eluded the issue due to her innate need for cleanliness.

A couple of weeks into this school year she noticed her daughter scratching her head. Melissa also had a sense of itching and upon examination found that all five family members had the nasty problem. Panic set in and she immediately ran to the drug store and bought the usual products they assumed would handle the problem.

“We tried chemical treatments, sprays, nit combs, shampoos, ….You name it!” Melissa exclaims. “I knew that these chemicals were not good to use on our heads or in our living environment, but I was desperate and willing to overlook it all to simply have relief. After a week of suffering, I realized that nothing was working so I ended up calling a removal service to get the problem under control.”

Teri, a mother of two, had a similar story. Her four-year-old daughter was sent home from preschool when she and several others became infested with the nasty little bugs. Worried for her three-month-old son, she kept the kids apart while treating her daughter with an over the counter lice shampoo that was recommended by her Pediatrician. She nit picked desperately for three hours combing through her daughter’s short blond hair to remove the bugs and their eggs.

“The school sent home a baggy,” states Teri, “with a few bugs and nits (eggs) that were taken from her head. This was so we could see what we were looking for. Being very blond, her hair was so light and fine that it was hard to see anything.”

According to Frank of Lousey Nitpickers, a Southern California based head lice and nit removal service, “It’s very difficult to see these little nits. I’ll spend hours going through each head of hair, physically removing one bug and nit at a time. It’s really the only way to safely and effectively take care of the problem and you have to get every single nit or the problem will just resurface in a few days.”

In Teri’s case, she was worried that she did not get all of the nits off of her daughter’s head so she called a local salon that specialized in lice removal and made an appointment. “The last thing I wanted to do, besides wait several days with bugs on her head, was to have my daughter’s hair picked through at a salon in front of everybody. I simply could not wait for the appointment, so I went on line and found a local service that comes to your home. They arrived the next day and after examining her head, found 10 more nits that I missed. I’m glad I called or I would still be dealing with the problem.“

Only through manual screening can one determine whether or not a treatment has worked. According to the NPA, effective screening and combing is the ultimate complement to whatever course of action an individual selects. To many who advocate against the toxic chemicals used in over the counter and even Pediatrician prescribed remedies, it’s the only way. Regardless of stance, the issue of head lice is a real one and one that must be dealt with swiftly and thoroughly.

Perhaps the best way to avoid head lice is through educating our children about the problem. According to Frank from Lousey Nitpickers, “Contrary to popular belief, lice don’t fly or jump. They crawl and need physical contact by an infested person or item to spread to a new host. To avoid getting head lice, I suggest that kids not share personal items such as hats, combs, brushes, scarves and helmets, and minimize head-to-head contact with others. Eliminate the contact and perhaps we can get this problem under control.”

Seen @ ISSE- Long Beach Hair Show Dazzles!

Did you get a chance to check out ISSE at the Long Beach convention center this year?  It was an action-packed 2.5 days worth of intense education, stage shows, hair demos, new product launches and an all around info-fest. 

Participants were graced with stage shows from such talent as Nick Arrojo, Charlie Price, Damien Carney, Kim Vo and the always magical Martin Parsons. Other headliners included the artistic team of Mike Karg and Jo Blackwell, John Simpson from Goldwell, Paul Vega of Wella, Toni Ricci of L’Oreal Professional, the Rusk Design Team, Rocco Donna Artistic Team, Sassoon Academy, the Teals, Jake Thompson, Raul Martez, and the National Latino Cosmetology Association (NLCA).

There was lots of hands-on hair, nail and skin education from an array of manufacturers including Andis, CND, Donna Bella Extensions, Hair Addictions, Hiroshi Beverly Hills, Ibiza, and Product Club. Zerran, Wahl Clipper, Scruples, and Cinderella Hair offered complementary hair education while Bellissima, Bio Sculpture, Christrio, Dashing Diva, Kupa, LeChat, Nail Tek, Odyssey and Young Nails rounded out the classes for nails. Certification classes were also offered for various hair extension and smoothing systems.

The show floor was packed daily with salon pros looking for the latest and greatest to help keep their skills fine-tuned and their arsenal of tools and products top-notch. 

If you missed the fun this year or are simply yearning for more, ISSE will be in Rosemont. IL at the Donald E. Stephens Convention Center on November 4-5, 2012. Also Long Beach ISSE will be here before you know it. Save the date - January 26-28, 2013! 

For more information about ISSE, please visit http://probeauty.org/isse/.

From Salon to Stage! Becoming an Educator or Platform Artist

After years of working feverishly behind the chair, have you ever found yourself thinking about teaching the next generation of hairdressers? Have you longed for the spotlight? Yearning to be on stage with some of the big names or to be a big name yourself? If so, we’d like to offer up some suggestions to set you on the right path.

Experience

If you’ve honed your craft over the years and feel that you have much to share, teaching maybe the logical step for you. Knowing the salon industry as you do, and the ins and outs of dealing with clients as well as treasure trove of technical experience, new stylists would love the chance to learn from you. Maybe it’s time to step up and give back!

Employees Versus Contract Labor

Most educators are independent contractors and teach classes on the side when not working in the salon. They are usually paid per class (versus a salary). Platform artists are typically booked out for entire shows or tours, usually as contract labor, but there are rare cases where they may be hired on as an employee. Most established platform artists have contracts in place with the manufacturer, typically for 1-3 years at a time. Education Directors or Show Directors, however, tend to be employees and may be required to work at the manufacturer’s corporate offices.

Specialties

In the salon it’s important to be well rounded in your skill set, but having a specialty can actually make you more valuable as an educator. It sets you apart from all of the other equally qualified salon professionals, all vying for the same job. If you’ve spent your career as a jack-of-all-trades, so to speak, identify your strengths and build them up to bona fide specialties.

Resumes, Biographies and Headshots

When looking to educate a good resume, bio and headshot help summarize everything you’ve done and offer a glimpse into your strengths. It’s important to create a presence on paper (and digitally) so start with a list of everything you’ve done, complete with dates, responsibilities and achievements, and then work with a good writer to help you structure a resume and craft an on-target bio.

A resume is typically not needed in the beauty industry as salons rely on your people skills more than a list of what you’ve done. But, educating positions are usually with manufacturers or even distributors and most of them follow a corporate structure. A resume will be expected.

In a nutshell, a resume is a structured outline of your skills, education and experience in a specific format. By contrast, a biography is a short synopsis of your experience and skills in a highly targeted blurb, usually one or two paragraphs tops. Both are always done in third person, meaning it’s about you but from another person’s perspective. Being in this format adds a sense of credibility, so use it to your advantage.

It’s very hard to write your own resume and bio, so ask for help. Ask your clients and peers for some descriptive words they feel describe you best and then add some of your own. Sit down with your writer and let them work their magic so the words represent you best. 

Once you have the written part in check, have a professional headshot done - something simple and effective with a confident yet friendly expression and pose (a 300 dpi jpeg image at 5x7" is a good starting point). Having one done before applying for the job shows that you have initiative and that you already see yourself in the position. Remember that this is not Facebook, so don’t take your own picture or use a low quality snapshot. Put some thought behind it and splurge for a decent shot.

Added Bonuses

If you’ve done hair or makeup for fashion shows, plays on stage or for photo shoots, be sure and include a sampling in a portfolio. Professional photographs add even more credibility, but published pieces speak even louder. Create a portfolio of your work and have it in print and digital forms so you are ready for either a face-to-face or online interview.

Contacts

If you are not sure where to start, approach the brands that you actually like and use in the salon. Talk with your local Distributor Salon Consultant to see what they might suggest. They may personally know the Director of Education and may be able to introduce you or even offer to be a reference. Otherwise, do your homework, call the company and ask who is in the position to hire educators and then send them your resume, bio, headshot, and link to your portfolio along with a well-written cover letter. If you don't hear back from them after a reasonable amount of time, follow up. Don't be a pest, but persistence is key!